 The process starts by establishing and marking the stock rear axle centerline using a hanging weight. This will serve as a critical reference point for all subsequent measurements. |
 Horizontal and vertical cut lines are applied to each side of the body. Don’t be fooled by body side molding; it’s rarely horizontal and is not a valid marking guide. Use a bubble level to assure accuracy as any upward or downward shift will introduce major hassles and lead to a bent car. |
 For the best aesthetic effect, we moved a spare tire along the body in 5-, 12- and 15-inch increments to get a sense of what it’ll look like before committing ourselves. At 5 inches the effect is too subtle and at 15 inches the effect is too much like a circus clown car. We settled on an even 12 inches. |
The 12-inch area marked with an X will be removed to make way for the repositioned body section.
Likewise, the passenger side of the body was marked for a 12-inch relocation. It is essential that all cut lines be exactly the same from one side of the body to the other. This assures symmetry and helps prevent a crooked job.
Moving inside the car, all seats, carpeting, upholstery and panels must be removed to provide access to the work area and prevent fire. As the rear suspension moves forward one foot, the wheel houses will move into the space normally occupied by the rear side window regulators. So…
 The window roll-up mechanisms must be eliminated. We’ll keep the stock glass windows but metal tabs will be fabricated to hold them in the up-position at all times. |
We were in for a shock when we discovered a scary amount of surface rust on the floor pan. No perforations, but some sections have lost half their thickness to corrosion over the years. Luckily, none of the afflicted metal is where we’ll be joining panels during surgery.