- I replaced them with Fel-Pro #1039 head gaskets. I was probably a little overkill on torquing them down. I started at 50 ft. lbs and worked my way around the head bolts (I used an ARP head stud kit) in 5-lb increments until I got to 80 ft. lbs. I waited overnight and using the recommended sequence, broke each nut loose and retorqued them to 80 lbs. I waited another night and made an 80 ft. lb. pull on them one more time. It must have worked, they have held up for 45 runs so far.
In the end my experience with the new World Products aluminum Mopar block was ALL GOOD. They are not a low-cost option, but in the long run they may be a better investment than an iron block. The weight savings makes the car faster; the engine cools down faster between rounds and the aluminum block can be TIG-welded in the event of a severe parts failure that would render an iron block useless.
Standard Milodon dual line oil system is a direct bolt-on. No grinding, no filing required. 
The crank trigger and timing chain cover bolted right on. No special spacers or modifications were required to get the distributor in either; it fit perfectly into the World Products aluminum block.
One lesson we learned about using the aluminum block in bracket racing is: You must put some heat in the engine and let it “soak” to make sure it has expanded to its “warmed up state.” If you get caught in a long delay due to bad weather or an oil-down you have to make sure you get some heat back in the engine. We found out our DRE Engine Diaper helped retain the heat in the oil and block.
The entire experience has been a fun lesson in how far the engineering has come and how fast a lightweight 572” Mopar can run. The Ohio Crankshaft 572” Project Mopar has ran a best of 4.69 on the eighth and 7.49 on the quarter mile.