Now it’s time to install the rings on the pistons. Again, patience and caution are important. Start with the oil ring expander followed but the upper and lower oil scraper rings. Position the end gaps of the oil ring package as follows. Looking down on the piston, with the front of the block to your left the oil ring expander gap should be in the 11-o’clock to 1-o’clock
position. The bottom oil ring gap should be at the 8-o’clock position and the top oil ring gap at the 4-o’clock.
The manufacturer calls for my second ring to go in with the bevel facing down. I install it so the end gap is at 6-o’clock. The top ring goes in with the dot facing up and the gap at the 12-o’clock position.
Total Seal does recommend coating the rings and cylinders with motor oil before assembly. I called them and their recommendation was to get the rings wet with transmission fluid (just to the point where there were no dry spots) and put a layer of transmission fluid on the piston skirts just before you put the ring compressor on to install them.
Then I take the rod cap off the rod, install the rod bearings (be sure to check each part number and be sure to install the upper and lower bearings in the right place on the rod and cap. The last thing to do before you install the piston and rod is to wipe the cylinder down three or four times with a lint-free rag that is dampened with transmission fluid. I use old linen rags (your wife’s priceless heirloom table cloth IS NOT RECOMMENDED!!) and wipe the cylinder until the rag quits picking up dark gray color.
 These are the two ways to install piston and ring assembly into the cylinder. The ARP 4.375 tapered ring installation tool (works slick by the way) or the "old school" wrap-around style ring compressor. Both work fine, take your time and be patient, that is the most important part of assembling an engine. |
Installing the pistons and rods. I use Lubriplate engine assembly lube on the bearings before I install the piston and rod. There are two types of piston ring compressors to choose from. On this engine I used the tapered style from ARP. Very easy to use and the only problem I encountered was on #1 and #2 the dowel pin was in the way so I used my trusty old ring compressor on those.
When you are tapping the piston and rod down into the cylinder make sure the crank journal is at it’s farthest point away from the cylinder so the rod won’t hit the crank journal and put a nick in it. I use some home made plastic sticks that slip into the rod (where the rod bolts will go) and they help guide the rod down over the crank journal. TAKE YOUR TIME, if you knock the piston down too fast and a ring slips out between the compressor and the block you can easily break a ring. Patience will pay off, trust me. When you get it in place use one hand to guide the rod over the crank and tap the piston down with the other. I use a plastic hammer handle to tap the piston and it works great.
When you get the rod in place on the crankshaft, take the rod cap and install it so the bearing tangs line up on the same side of the rod and snug the bolts down to about 15 ft. lbs so the cap and rod parting line is closed up tight. Continue to do this until all eight pistons and rods are in and you are getting close to finishing up the rotating assembly installation.
Next thing on our list is the Chenoweth main cap girdle. We are using a passenger car style stock 440 block. Yes, it’s 35 years old and they are a bit weak in the main cap area. We could not find nor did our budget allow for a $4000.00 aftermarket block. The BCR billet aluminum main caps combined with the Chenoweth billet steel lower-end girdle should provide excellent results for the 540/E85 and what we hope end up being an 800 Horsepower engine.
