 This is the tool I use to make sure the ring is "square" in the cylinder. Keeping it the same depth in the cylinder is important to get accurate end gap measurements. There are a variety of ways to do it, just make sure it is the same depth off the deck surface all the way around. |
 This is my Old Faithful ring gapping grinder. You hold the ring squarely against the back, turn the crank so it grinds the ring against the backing plate. So simple it makes me wonder how thought this one up. I have used this one for over 20 years. |
The instructions from Total Seal call for a top ring end gap of .0055” x your bore diameter. In this case I have 4.375” x .0054 = .024” end gap. The second ring calls for a slightly larger gap (.0058 x 4.375”= .025”). The thin oil scraper rings usually do not have to be filed, just make sure there is at least .015” end gap on the ones you have. Mine were about .025” so they were OK. There are a few things that are important to get proper end gap.The ring must be level with the deck when you measure the gap.
There are special tools for this but I have always used a small manual depth gauge. It is like a miniature T-square. I set it up for 3/8” and after slipping the ring into the cylinder I use it to make sure the ring is 3/8” down from the deck all the way around. The next thing I recommend is either a manual or electric ring end gap tool. I use the same manual one I bought over 20 years ago. Patience is the key! I turn the file/wheel so it turns away from the outer edge and the moly-coating on the ring.
Go slow so you don’t end up with more gap than you want. I take a small stone I use to sharpen knives to de-burr the ring ends I filed before trial fitting them so I won’t scratch the cylinder wall. On the first rings take your time and as you continue you will get a “feel” for the initial amount of ring you need to file off. It is ALWAYS BETTER to be a few thousandths short
and have to file it a little more than go too far and end up with excessive ring end-gap and a loss of power because of it.
After all rings are gapped and laid with the correct piston for that cylinder you can finish assembling the rods and pistons. These Ohio Crankshaft pistons use a double Spiro-lock pin retaining system. I install the double Spira-locks on one side of each piston before I put the pistons on the rods. The first couple Spira-Locks I installed reminded me of how often I DON’T DO THIS. Just be patient and you will find a system of twisting them in to get them started and then I use a small screwdriver to push them into the groove. The first two took me 15 minutes and the rest of them took about 10 minutes.
Now you can install the piston pins into the piston and through the rod. Make sure you have the valve relief positioned correctly for the cylinder. I put a light coat of Red Line Oil Assembly Lube on the pins to prevent a dry-start and possible scoring the pin or piston. After they are in you can put the final two Spira-Locks in place. With that complete check the Spira-Locks to make sure they are completely seated in the grooves.
