Once the ring is "squared up" in the cylinder use a feeler gauge to check the end gap. I was shooting for .025" so the first feeler gauge I used was a .019 to make sure I didn't go too far. Then I snuck up on the .025 a little at a time.

With the crankshaft clearance checked we install the rods and pistons with no rings to make sure the rods will clear as well. The Chenoweth CNC block clearancing program worked to perfection, it is close but we have over .125" clearance on all rods.

With the rods done it was time to check for stroker clearances. We installed the Main bearings, coated them with Redline Oil Assembly Lube and carefully set the crankshaft in place. **No need to install the main seal yet as the crank will come back out. I was just checking the crankshaft to block clearances. Chenoweth made their CNC-programmed clearances but I did not provide the crankshaft to them so we had to be sure we are OK. Chenoweth’s workmanship was excellent as we had plenty of clearance.

Next I had to make sure the rods would clear the block where Chenoweth has notched the lower part of the cylinders. I put the pistons on the rods with no rings or pin-locks and coated them lightly with transmission fluid. I was just checking clearances so no final prep on them was needed yet. There was plenty of clearance where the rods get close to the bottom of the cylinders thanks to the notches Chenoweth Machine provided. We are using the 2.100” Chevy rod journals on the Ohio Crankshaft rods and that helps by providing a smaller overall diameter on crankshaft end of the rod. You can now check rod side clearance. We have .018 on these steel rods and that is fine. Crankshaft end play checked out at .006 and that is OK as well.

Now is a great time to check for piston valve clearance if you have your cylinder heads, cam and rocker gear. I am not lucky so I am taking a bit if a chance right here but I am familiar with these big-block Mopars and the valve relief in the piston is about .075” deeper then the ones on my other engine and with almost identical camshafts I do see a problem. The new Victor Heads are at Modern Cylinder Head and Jeff has informed me we should have them in a couple weeks. Crane Cams is waiting for some flow numbers and this engine will feature a Crane Cams roller camshaft and related vale gear.

****Editor Note: This is one problem with doing a “Magazine Project”/ Deadlines have to be met and BEFORE I put the oil pan on I WILL CHECK my piston to valve clearance. You will see how to do that next month.

When you have determined you have proper clearance you can remove the crankshaft and install the upper half of the rear main seal. I put a small line of silicone on the back of the seal and slide it into the block with the lip facing the inside of the engine. Wipe off any excess silicone and put a light coat of engine oil on the seal so it won’t stick to the crankshaft when you roll it over by hand during assembly.

Now it was time to be patient and get the ring end gaps set on the conventional Total Seal ring package that came with the Ohio Crankshaft 540” kit. Since I do not make my living building engines I have to make sure I am organized when I start these projects. I clear off a large 8’ table, lay everything out and mark off an area for each cylinder. The piston, rod, bearing, pin, pin locks and rings get laid out accordingly. Read the piston ring instructions thoroughly because some are marked differently. On the Total Seal the top ring is a 1/16th” style and has a small dimple on the top ring that faces up, the second ring is a 1/16th” and has no dimple but the chamfer (or bevel side) faces down. The oil rings are pretty standard 3/16” low-tension package and since we are using a vacuum pump, they will work well for us.

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